Why did Europeans come to Manankurra?

The German explorer, Ludwig Leichhardt and his party were the first Europeans to visit the Zamia (cycad) groves here in 15 Sep. 1845. He described it as 'fine available country'. Following the 'well beaten footpaths of the natives', he was impressed by the 'most strikingly picturesque appearance' of the trees. Although he found wells, they were dry and his bullocks were weak as a result of drinking brackish water at Seven Emu Creek to the East. He came across water 'near a much frequented camping place of the natives, under the banks of a magnificent salt-water river' (the Wearyan). He comments that the local Aborigines either avoided him, or left when he arrived. He observed that they feasted on pandanus and cycad nuts, and learned by observation what preparation they required to neutralise their poisons. He observed accurately the process of roasting to get to the kernel, slicing thinly and drying and soaking for several days, before fermenting and grinding into a paste and baking. He also saw 'a rude wall of stone, for catching fish.'(Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia, 1847: 402-9).

Click here to read more of Leichhardt's Journal

Steve Johnson used to travel from Vanderlin Island to mine salt here.

Horace Foster (d. 1941)was the first European to settle here permanently. He mined salt in this area, and because there were Aboriginal people coming here, he had a ready source of labour for the mine. It was after his settlement that Aborigines who had previously gathered seasonally settled here permanently.Another story to do with Manankurra was the accidental shooting of Horace Foster, told by Bessie Marshall a-Kithibula (translated from Yanyuwa by John Bradley).

mimi barra katharra-wingka marnijingu
grandson now we two went from here
waluku barra kiwa-wingka karakarra
for a while now he came from the east
na-Ietter karnilu-ka nyu-Minjiwuka
letter he carried it with Minjiwuka
nyikunya-ardiyardi ki-Musso kiwa-wingka
his nephew for Musso he came
marnijinju
to here

We went from here for a while, grandson, after Musso's nephew Minjiwuka brought a letter from the east (from Manankurra).

marningatharra marnaji anka ngaliwa
we two here here up when he
nyanku-wangu ngaliwa kiwa-Ihuwarri
her husband when he he had departed
akarriya nyala Wollogoranglu kulu
eastwards unto to Wollogorang and
nyangatha-wangu kawula-lhuwarri akarriya
my husband those two had departed eastwards
ngulaya wulanga
behind for those two

We two were here up (there at the old Police Station), when her husband
was away, he had gone east to Wollogorang as had my husband, those two had gone when these things happened.

marnaji ngatharra ngatharralumba wula
here we two we two ourselves those two
mili waka katharra-Ihuwarri ngatharra kanda-wukanyi
again awaya we two departed we two she spoke
ngatha a-mangaji a-bardibardi 'bawuji
for me that female old lady finish
ka-wingkala ngathangka a-ny ira ngatha
you will come with me companion for me
ka-wingkala kumba-wangkala nya-mangaji
you will come he shot himself that male one

nya-wajbala akarru Manankurra'.
white man in the east Manangoorah

We were by ourselves when those two were away again, so we departed, she said to
me,"You will come with me as my companion, the white man in the east at Manankurra has shot himself."

karrarna-rduma a-muwarda marnaji rriku
I got her canoe here she was for him
nya-mangaji nya-wajbala kiwa-ninya
that male white man he was there
nya-malbu nya-Old Charlie A vey a-muwarda
old man Old Charlie Avey canoe
barra rriku a-walkurra kanyatharra-rduma
now she was for him big we two got him
nya-mangaji nya-Minjiwuka kulu nya-Old Roger Jose
that male Minjiwuka and Old Roger Jose
kulu rrikurra-wangu a-Maggie kanu-wingka
and his wife Maggie we went
barra kila-ka nya-ngatharranga juwak
now he carried for us two swags
ma-ngarra bajawu wu-muwardala marnaji
food there in the canoe here
barra wayka Rocky Creek Junction.
now down Rocky Creek Junction.

I got a canoe that belonged to that old man Old Charlie A vey , it was a big canoe. Then we got Minjiwuka and Old Roger Jose and his wife Maggie. We went now, he carried our swags, the food was in the canoe, which was down here at the Rocky Creek Junction.

kanu-Ihuwarri barra mukunjarna barra kanu-Ihuwarri
we departed now midday now we departed
kanu-wingka kanu-arri walkurr baji
we went we were there sleep there
Crooked River Wunguntha barra ngamalamba
Crooked River place name now on the south
ngalunga akarriya kanu-wingka na-warramanja
south eastwards we went short cut
na-wulangi baji ngabiyala Wuminyamba bawuji
river there what is it? place name finish

We departed at midday and we went and slept at the Crooked River at a place called Wunguntha on the southern bank, then we went eastwards to the short cut river that is called Wuminyamba.

kanu-Ihuwarri yalibala kanda-wukanyi ngatha
we departed early she spoke for me
a-bardibardi 'nya-ngalikaya nya-ngatha juwak
old lady get it for you and I my swag
kali-nmala walkurr' katharra-ninya arrkula
you and I will sleep we two were there one
kanu-arri walkurra baji.
when we slept there

We departed early in the morning and she spoke to me that old lady,"You get my swag for both of us and we will sleep together" .We were there sleeping in one swag.

kanu-Ihuwarri yalibala akarriya kanu-wingka
we departed early eastwards we went
kanu-wajanga yurrngumantha kawula-wajanga
we paddled continually those two paddled
kanu-wingka kanu-ngalba Manankurra kari-wayka
we came we entered Manangoorah coming up
ankaya yurrngumantha kanu-wingka yalibala
upwards continually we went early
kanu-Ihuwarri ngala ngarna karna-wingka
we departed when I I went
aliyaaliya ji-anthalu karna-wardankayaninya
not yet to the sea I was frightened
kurdandu barra.
intensely now

We departed early and went eastwards, we paddled, and the two men were paddling all the time, we came and entered the river going up to Manangoorah, we went continually early, we departed on this trip and I had never been to the sea before and I was very frightened.

kanu-wingka barra ankaya kanu-ngalba
we went now upwards we entered
Manankurra ngaliwa baji nya-malbu
Manangoorah when he there old man
nya-Steve Johnson nya-rdaku kulu nya-malbu
Steve Johnson hunched back and old man
nya-Norman McIntyre kanyawula-yukumanthaninya
Norman Mclntyre those two waited with him
yilaa barra katharra-wingka kulu
with him now we two went and
katharra-wundirri ngabungabula kulu bajingu
we two ascended in the late afternoon and from there
kanyandu-kala wungku-mangaji wu-bardibardilu
he saw her to that female one to the old lady
wu-mijijilu bawuji.
to the white women finish.

We went upwards and entered into the river at Manangoorah, and those two men Old Steve Johnson, the hunch back and Norman McIntyre were waiting with him. We went and ascended to Manangoorah in the late afternoon and from there he ( Horace Foster) saw her, that old white lady who had come.

kanyangatbarra-arlkalba marnaji barra kumba-wurunma
we washed him here now he had broken himself
kumba-wangkala wumba kumba-wangkala kiwarna-Ibunu
he had shot himself when he had shot himself he was broken
wiji niwa-ngulyanda bawuji kanyandu-yukuma
completely his bone finish she waited with him
kanyandu-arlkalba kanyandu-yabimantbawu yiku
she washed him she was making it better for him
kiwa-wurunma marniwaji kurdandu barra
he was pieces across here intensely now
anka marniwaji niya-rarrama barra.
up across here his thigh now.

We washed him where he had shot himself, the bone was completely broken, she waited with him and washed him and made things better for him. His thigh across this way was in pieces, it was a mess.

kumba-wangkala shotgunla barra nungka .303
he shot himself with a shot gun now maybe .303
kili-nma bullet nya-mangaji ngajarr
it wa stuck bullet that one gun
ji-wurrbinganila kiwa-yalwa ngala kurdardi
with a knife he tried but nothing
namba winarrku kiwa-arri kiwa-yinjathirri
then just he was there he was angry
barra kilu-wandiba nganinya kulu ki-wurlma
and he hit it this way and it exploded
yilaa waykaliya nganinya
with him downwards this way.

He had shot himself with a shotgun, it may have been a .303, a bullet was stuck in that gun and he tried to get it with a knife but he could'nt and then he just got angry and he hit the gun and it exploded this way downwards hitting him.

karrandi-nu rriku-wangu nanda-wini a-Bajamalanya
she told her his wife her name Bajamalanya
a-Alice ankurra-wibi rruwu-ja wu-Rosie
Alice her mother for here for Rosie
ngalawula barra rri-mangaji arduwujara
when those two now that two to children
rrikirri-arduwujara a-Rosalyn karralu-wundarrba
her two children Rosalyn they called her
nanda-buyi kulu nya-Jim Foster nyikunya-ardu
she was small and Jim Foster his son
barra ngalawula marnajinju buyinwujara bawuji.
now when those two to here two small ones finish

Old Foster's wife told here this, her name was a-Bajamalanya or Alice she was the mother of Rosie, those two children were called Rosalyn and Jim Foster those two were here when they were small.

kiwa-wani nya-mangaji nya-wajbala nya-Old Roger Jose
he returned that male whiteman Old Roger Jose
kiwa-wani wu-muwardala kulu rrikurra-wangu
he returned with a canoe and his wife
kawula-wingkayi ngaliba Burrulula kulu
those two went again all the way to Borroloola and
kiwa-arri ringimup barra kili-ja waya barra
he was there ringing up now he sent telegram now
doctor barra kulu kiwa-wani barra ji-wayangka
doctor now and he returned now on a lugger
ni-wini Liesa kiwa-wani ji-wayangka
its name Liesa he returned on a lugger
wumba kinja-kanthananinya darladarla
when it would carry cargo
barra kari-wayka kiwa-wani barra ngaliwa
now coming up he returned now when he
kili-ja waya barra nyu-doctorlu.
he sent telegram now to the doctor.

The white man Old Roger returned, he had gone back to Borroloola with his wife by canoe to ring up, he had sent a telegram to the doctor and had returned on the lugger which was called Liesa, he returned on the lugger which carried cargo, he returned upstream when he had sent the telegram to the doctor.

ngalanganu kanu-wurrba nganinya aya ngalunga
while we we cleared this way westwards southwards
aya kinganu-tharramanthaninya wurnda
westwards it we had been cutting trees
nganu li-ardubirri baki rriku-wangu
we children and his wife
kulu nya-mangaji nya-malbu nyankunya-biyi
and that one old man her father
wu-Amy kanu-arri waki baji
for Amy we were there working there
kinganu-wurrba ni-buyi awara ji-julakindu bawuji
it we cleared small one place for the plane finish.

While he (Roger) head be away we had cleared a place this way west and south we had been cutting trees, us, the children and his wife (for Foster) and that old man Amy's father. We were there clearing a little place for the plane (to land).

kiwa-wani nya-mangaji nya-wajbala nya-Roger
he returned that one whiteman Roger
nya-mangaji julaki ki-wingka barra ki-wingka
that one plane it came now it came
ngularrinjarra ngaliwa kumba-mirra nganiyaji
behind when he he died this time
kulu kanyangatharra-widiwidima rrungku-mangaji
and we two carried him to her
wu-bardibardilu wu-mijijilu kanyangatharra-arlkalba
to the old lady to the white woman we to washed him
bawuji kanyangatharra-yulurlba jumbalaa ngaliwa
finsih we two dressed him with clothes when
nyamba-mirranthalu bawuji.
close to death finish.

He returned that whiteman Roger and the plane came after him, it came and he died, about this time of the day (late afternoon) and we carried him, the white woman also, we washed him and we dressed him in clothes when he was close to death.

ki-wingka nya-mangaji julaki kanu-wululuma
it came that one plane we ran
bajinju ngalalhi ki-yibanda kariya nya-Doctor Panton
to there when it it arrived from the west Doctor Panton
barra bawuji
now finish.

We ran when the plane came from the west and landed with Doctor Panton.

kanyangatharra- manha kanyangatharra -widiwidima
we two held him we two carried him
nganinya ngaliwa kumba-mirra kanyangatharra-manha
this way when he he died we two held him
nganinya kanyangatharra-widiwidima kari-wayka
this way we two carried him upwards
ngalalhi wabamantharra ankangu ngaliwa kumba-mirra
when it flying above when he he died
bawuji.
finish.

We two held him and carried him when he died, we carried him upwards (towards the strip ) when the plane was flying above and he died.

ki-yanbanda barra a-mangaji a-mijiji kanda-Ihuwarri
it arrived now that female white woman she departed
kanda-wani ji-julakinda kanda-wukanyi ngatha
she returned on the plane she spoke for me
'wingkaya ngulakari nya-kaya jina awara ngulakari
coming behind bring it this everything behind
marda na-midijin juwak nawula-kaya
also medicine swag those two bring
malbuwujaralu' kanda-arri ngatha kanda-wingka
two old men to she spoke for me she went
ambirriju nya-Donagan kulu nya-Minjiwuka kulu
in the lead Donagan and Minjiwuka and
a-mangaji rriku-wangu nyu-Donagan a-Angeline
that female his wife for Donagan Angeline
yikurra-baba nyu-Rickett a-ngabungaku barra
his sister for Rickett deceased female now
Ikanu-Ihuwarri bawuji wu-muwardala.
we departed finish in the canoe

The plane landed and thar white woman she departed, she wnet back in the plane, she said to me,"Come behind and bring all these things with you and the medicine and swag, and bring those two old men". She said this to me and then went. Donagan and Minjiwuka and Donagan's wife Angeline, the sister of Ricket, she is dead now we departed in the canoe.

kanu-Ihuwarri barra bawuji kanda-wajba ngatha
we departed now finish she sang out for me
'ngarna ambirriju' a-mijiji kanda-arri 'ngulakari
me leader white woman she said behind
nawula-kaya rrinji-mangaji ji-malbuwujaralu
bring those two with those two to the two old men
karna-nmala karna-bayimala baji Burrulula' nya-mangaji
I will I will pay them there Borroloola that male
nya-malbu nya-Roger kanyagana-nda bajingulaji
old man Roger we left him at that place
bawuji.
finish.

We departed now and she sanf out to me,"I will go in the lead, you come behind bringing those two old men, I will pay then there at Borroloola". The old man Roger we left at that place.

kanu-Ihuwarri wu-muwardala kinganu-yibarra
we departed in the canoe it we placed
awara wiji bawuji kanu-Ihuwarri karanka
everything completely finsih we departed going down
yurrngumantha waykaliya nganinya kanu-Iukulukuma
continually downwards this way we went around
kanu-arri walkurr Jarrka kulu bajingu kanu-wingka
we were there sleep place name and from there we went
mili yurrngumantha ankaya wundururra
again continually upwards at night
kanu-yibanda marnaji Burrulula bawuji.
we arrived here Borroloola finish

We departed in the canoe and in it we had placed all the belongings and we departed downwards and we went around and camped at Jarrka and from there we went on continually upwards allnight we travelled and arrived at Borroloola.

karnuwula-ka ankaya yumbulyumbulmantha
those two carried it upwards everything
kingatharra-ka yirdiyirdijanja juwak bawuji
it we carried carrying on hips swag finish
kanda-arri 'marninda ka-wingkanhu' 'Yuwu marnajingarna'
she said you here you came yes I am here
karna-arri 'karnawula-ka rrinji-mangaji marnawula
I said those two carried with those two here these two
marda yumbulyumbulmantha baji kiwula-yibalyibarra'
also everything there those two placed it
awara kawulandu-ngunda wabarrangu kurdardi
possessions she gave those two long ago nothing
kalu-ngundayanima ma-mani wabarrangu ngayamantharra
they did not give money long ago only
ma-bulawa dubaka wawu kawulandu-ngunda bayima
flower tobacco sugar she gave those two pay
bawuji barra.
finish now

Those two (Minjiwuka and Donagan) carried everything up (to the Police Station) and we (Bessie and Angeline) carried the swags on our hips. When I arrived she said to me, "You are here, you came". And I said, "Yes here I am, those two old men brought me, they are here also, those two put everything here." She gave them possessions, long ago they did not give money, only flour, tobacco and sugar, she gave those two these things for pay. That's all.

Bill Harney knew this place, and talked about it thus:

Our interest in Manangoora was because of its good locality near the sea, and we gathered the bay salt from the salt pans nearby. The Wearyan River had a steep bank for a landing near a small depression in which was a native well with fresh water. There, with our vessel tied up to the shore because of a small rise and fall of the tide, we could lead a different life among the Karawa [Garrwa] people of that locality.

Like most places where we found Aborigines and good trade, we built permanent huts of paperbark, and with a garden, we established a root in the area. Thus Manangoora became the main centre for our work, and to it cam our old friends of the past.

One of these was a horse teamster, called Channy, a carrier of past days. He now had a small cattle station at the head of this reiver, and between mustering his cattle, he would go out with his horse team searching for wandlewood, of which there was a little in this area. Now he was camped near us, and grumbling because he had shipped a load of "trade" away, and had received no returns.

"It's me trade," gloomily from the old man, "me tucker and credits are low in the 'Loo" (short for Borroloola).

"The blacks look well," jocularly from Horace. "You seem to feed them nicely."

"Feed them be damned," testily from the other. "Why, they're feeding me from the bush!...This place must have been the original Garden of Eden...crammed full up of tucker. Look at them tall "Munja" palms! Each one would feed a person for days."

Manangoora! Its tall cycas palms silhouetted against the night. Beneath them, the fires of the tribesmen who were resting from the day's toil [preparing salt for export].

(W.E.Harney: Content to Lie in the Sun, London: Robert Hale 1958, pp.126-7)

He goes on to recall a wet-season Christmas Day feast of which the centrepiece was 2 dugongs, with side dishes of goanna, possum and sugarbag.